Few appliances in your home work as tirelessly as your washing machine, handling load upon load of laundry throughout the year. While most washing machines are designed to operate for 10 to 14 years, solid maintenance habits can push those numbers further and help you prevent unexpected repair costs. Best of all, maintaining a extended-life washing machine requires only a small set of easy steps that are virtually free.
Read on for a complete guide to keeping your washing machine running at its best.
Avoid Stuffing the Drum Too Full
One of the most destructive things you can do to a washing machine is stuff it too full. Once garments absorbs water with water, its weight increases significantly, putting intense stress on the bearing assembly, motor, and internal framework. This repeated pressure causes premature breakdown on parts that are among the most pricey to service or change.
As a basic rule, fill the drum about three-quarters of the way full and leave capacity for the laundry to tumble freely. When washing oversized individual items such as comforters or pillow sets, toss in a few towels to help even out the weight evenly. An off-balance drum does not just wear out faster, it also causes intense vibrations that can push the washer out of position and loosen internal connections over time.
Make Sure Your Washer Sits Flat
Modern washing machines can hit spin speeds of 1,600 RPM or more. At that velocity, even the smallest lean can generate excessive vibration that slowly wears down internal elements and compromises connections. Set a level tool on the top of the machine and confirm it is level in both planes. If it is not level, undo the lock nuts on the leveling feet, reposition each foot pad until the machine is completely level, then retighten everything securely. This single step can meaningfully prolong your washer's lifespan and also noticeably eliminates the loud banging vibrations many homeowners mistake for normal operation.
Use the Right Amount of Detergent
Using more detergent does not produce better-washed clothes, and it puts unnecessary stress on your washer. An overdose of detergent generates too many suds, which the machine must work overtime to clear, often initiating additional rinse cycles in the process. Accumulated detergent in the drum and plumbing components promotes microorganisms over time, producing the stale scents that many machines eventually develop.
For HE washing machines, it is critical to use only cleaning agents carrying the HE label. Standard detergent is incompatible with the reduced-water operation of HE washers and produces lather-related issues that accumulate with every wash. For most standard loads, just 1–2 tablespoons of liquid detergent is adequate. If you are in doubt, consult your washer's handbook for measurement guidance based on load size and water hardness.
Keep the Drum Clean With Regular Maintenance
The inside of a washing machine tub can harbor significant buildup of soap buildup, fabric softener, skin oils, and mineral deposits even when it looks clean. Committing to a routine drum-cleaning cycle is one of the most straightforward and most beneficial things you can do for your washer's health.
The most of modern washing machine units include a integrated drum-clean setting in their menu. If yours is not equipped with one, simply run an unloaded cycle on the highest temperature using a descaling tablet, two cups of white vinegar, or baking soda. This wash clears built-up deposits, kills odor-causing organisms behind bad smells, and extends the life of door seals and internal pipes. This routine is most valuable for front-loading washers, as their close-fitting door gaskets tend to trap water and are particularly susceptible to mold growth.
Clean the Filter and Detergent Drawer
A debris filter is a common feature on most washing machines, generally found behind a little door at the bottom front of the appliance. This filter catches lint, change, hair bands, and other foreign objects that make their way into the laundry. When this filter becomes clogged, the machine is unable to drain properly, which adds pressure on the pump and can cause water sitting stagnant inside the drum post-cycle.
Try to inspect and rinse this filter at least every four weeks. Just unscrew it, rinse it under running water, clear any caught material, and put it back in place. While you are at it, slide out the detergent drawer completely and give it a complete clean. Soap and softener residue accumulates fast in this drawer and can block the nozzles that move detergent to the drum, subtly lowering the performance of every wash.
Inspect and Replace Hoses Regularly
The inlet hoses at the back of your washing machine are a component most homeowners ignore, yet a burst hose is one of the most frequent causes of serious water damage in the property. Rubber hoses degrade over time and can create hairline cracks or weak areas that eventually give way under constant pressure.
Every two quarters, check your supply hoses carefully for any bulging, cracks, wear at the fittings, or discoloration that indicate the rubber is weakening. The majority of manufacturers usually suggest changing standard hoses on a 3–5 year schedule even if they look fine. Upgrading to reinforced stainless steel hoses is a worthwhile decision, as they are far more durable and much less likely to bursting. Make sure the fittings are tight at both connection points, at the washer and at the shut-off here valve, and watch for any signs of dripping or wetness.
Empty Pockets Before Every Wash
It sounds simple, but forgotten items in clothing pockets are responsible for a surprising share of washing machine problems. Rigid items like small coins, keys, small hardware, and hair clips can work their way through drum gaps and either wear out the bearings on contact or jam the drain pump, creating a rattling sound that gets worse over time. Paper napkins fall apart in the wash and deposit lint behind that restricts the filter over time. Items like chapstick and ballpoint pens can break open mid-cycle, staining the laundry and building up difficult stains on the drum interior that is very hard to remove.
Build a fast pocket check into your laundry routine before every individual load. Flipping thicker items to their inside allows for searching easier, and children's clothing above all require a closer look since little objects, small art supplies, and similar items are common hitchhikers.
Leave the Door Open Between Washes
Running a wash cycle does not mean the inner surfaces of your machine is moisture-free, as moisture accumulates in the drum interior, rubber seal, and soap drawer after every cycle. Closing the door straight after a wash traps that moisture inside, creating the ideal damp, warm environment for mold to develop. This issue affects front-load washers most severely due to their close-fitting rubber door gaskets, which hold water in their ridges with every wash.
After unloading your washing, leave the lid or door open for at least 60 minutes to enable air to circulate and the interior to dry out. Clean the rubber gasket on front-loading washers with a dry cloth, paying attention to the folds in the gasket where moisture collects. Simply keeping the door open is one of the cheapest and most effective defenses against the stubborn musty smell that plagues machines that are consistently kept shut.
Protect Your Floor and Machine With the Right Surface
If your washing machine stands flat on a tile or timber floor, machine vibrations during the high-speed spin can slowly shift the machine, loosen fittings, and even scratch or warp the surface over time. An anti-vibration mat installed underneath the machine is a simple and inexpensive solution. Made from thick rubber, these mats absorb the energy created during high-speed operation and keep the machine from creeping across the floor. These mats cost very little, require no installation effort, and deliver a clear benefit in both machine noise and the stability of the unit.
Contact a local appliance repair service today for fast, affordable washing machine repair.